Traditional German Holiday Dishes

This year, I am treating Michelle and Elisabeth to some traditional German foods that I grew up with. And we are doing them on the day after Christmas.

First I must say, in the United States it seems the media has really run away with the Dickensian version of Christmas. I do love the English feasts, but not at the complete expense of ignoring many other great food traditions.

Dickens may have been instrumental in creating our modern view of a traditional Christmas, but he went to Germany to do it.

So with Elisabeth becoming interested in her ancestry, we’ve decided to go with a couple traditional German dishes that exemplify German and Rhine Valley Christmas dinners. These two that I’ve picked go extremely well with other fare.

In Germany the Christmas seasons runs from early  December to the Epiphany in January. Germans usually put out a big Spread on Christmas Eve and then visit friends and relatives on the evening of Christmas Day and all day December 26th. With this tradition, and numerous days of revelry, it pays to keep many delicious and quick foods on hand for any situation or visitor.

Red Cabbage

Red Cabbage is extremely simple. It is traditionally served with roast goose or bratwurst and mashed potatoes. However, it works well all year long and you will never need to buy red cabbage in a jar again. It is warm and homey for the winter and doesn’t heat up the kitchen if you make it for a summer barbecue.

Makes 4 servings.

Ingredients:

• 2 1/2 oz. bacon, chopped
• 1/2 c. onion, diced
• 4 c. shredded red cabbage, about 1 lb.
• 1/2 c. dry, red wine
• 1/2 c. apple cider (or juice)
• 1 T. sugar  (or Stevia, Agave nectar or honey)
• 1 bay leaf
• 4 cloves
• Ground black pepper
• 1 apple, peeled and quartered

Preparation:
Brown bacon in a Dutch oven. Add onions and sauté for 5 minutes.

Slice the cabbage into long strips. If you have a mandolin, it makes quick work but please don’t let young kids operate this device. It’s too easy to get cut.

Once the onions are translucent, toss in the cabbage and cook for 2-3 minutes. Use the red wine and apple cider to deglaze, add the spices, sugar and apple.

Simmer on stove top for 2-3 hours, stirring occasionally. Keep the liquids about a 1/2-inch deep, adding cider or water as necessary. Adjust seasonings to your tastes and serve hot. Surprisingly, this dish freezes well in freezer bags.

Main Course: Something different!
(NO Turkey or Roast Beef)

There are similarities with Christmas fowl served in Germany and Britain that have never really taken hold in the States. We are turkey people here. It’s American. I know, Scrooge bought a prize turkey for the Cratchits. A goose was a treat for the common folk. However, the more common English Christmas dinner was a joint of beef (Much enjoyed  as a rib roast in the USA). Economical because it would provide left-over meals for the entire week. Get a big enough joint of beef and your family will have two dinners, sandwiches on the third day, and a great starter for beef soup that will make a several meals. Since we still dwelling on English fare; and this is ‘Kids and a Cook’, perhaps Dickens’ should be partially credited, since in “A Christmas Carol”, Mrs. Cratchit, preparing gravy from the goose, has her children assisting with the meal. (‘Master Peter mashed the potatoes with incredible vigor’; ‘Miss Belinda sweetened the applesauce’; ‘Martha dusted the hot plates’). See even I get sucked back into the English Christmas!

Germans, like most Europeans, don’t cook very many turkeys. For festive occasions it’s goose or duck. Christmas goose is a rare meal in America, and I think it’s because people are put off by the idea that goose is either too difficult or greasy. It is easier to cook than a turkey because the meat is succulent and will hardly ever dry out. Like other fowl, cooking it with onions, thyme and fruit are excellent seasoning choices.

Holiday Bird

You can substitute a duck — or two — if you have a large gathering, or a duck and a small turkey or turkey breast. This way any less adventuresome family members can be satisfied.

This recipe makes 4 servings and gravy.

• 4 1/2 lb. goose,  (or duck) cleaned and dressed (no gizzards)
• 1-2 apples, peeled, cored and quartered
• 1  medium onion, cut in wide strips
• 1-2 tsp. thyme
• Salt
• Pepper
• 2 T. all-purpose flour
• 1 14 oz. can chicken broth or homemade giblet stock
• Apple cider or water (to baste the bird)

Preparation:
Pre-heat oven to 350°F.

Wash and completely dry the bird.  Salt and pepper and sprinkle thyme over the bird and inside the cavity. Then fill with the apple quarters and onions. If they don’t all fit, you can cook them alongside the bird in the roasting pan. (With Turkey, I usually rub butter on the skin before seasoning to help with crisping and taste—no need with goose or duck)

If you are using a duck or goose, slice the skin in several places to let the fat drip out as it cooks.  When slicing do not stab through to the meat. Slice holding the blade on an angle equal to the breast. Just pierce the skin but do not cut into the meat, stay in the layer of fat.   This fat is wonderful stuff and can be used like a seasoning for many dishes.  And don’t worry about the fat content in your diet; you’re not eating a goose or a duck everyday.

The Bird goes on the roasting rack breast side down and placed in the pre-heated oven for 50 minutes. Cover the legs with tin foil for the first part of the cooking cycle. Use the cider and water mixture to baste the bird several times during this period. Add more water to the pan if necessary. Turn the bird over onto its back and cook, basting as needed, for approximately 50 minutes.

The few Geese I’ve seen the market lately have been very large birds and will take the same amount of time to roast a Thanksgiving Turkey! The method doesn’t change from what I described.  Just keep checking and turning the bird. If you are cooking a duck smaller than  4 – 5 pounds, cooking times will need to be reduced.  A rule of thumb is 20 – 25 minutes per pound. The legs should wiggle and the juices run clear ; Use a thermometer to be sure it’s done.

Let the bird rest while you make the gravy.

To make the gravy: You can use the giblets to enhance the stock if you are so inclined.  First chop then Roast them in a separate dish (about 20 minutes). Place in a saucepan and then simmer in stock for 35 minutes. Strain and reserve for the gravy. When the bird is resting;

Mix 2 tablespoons of the fat drippings with 2 tablespoons flour in a saucepan and cook for 1 minute. Gradually add the chicken broth, and/or the giblet broth, stirring well after each addition. You will need to decide how much chicken broth to add based on how much gravy you desire.  It may require some more drippings and flour. Salt, pepper and add thyme to taste. Keep warm.

Serve with canned peach halves decorated with current jelly, buttered Brussel Sprouts, mashed potatoes or any other vegetable your family likes.

Traditional and more bountiful German holiday dinners would also set out a platter of wursts (weisswurst and bratwursts mainly — as knockwurst was for summer). Sort of like how the Italians serve a pasta course with a hearty meal.

Lastly, I’m leaving any baking to Michelle, and in a nod to contemporary appetites, I’m not sharing any recipes for fruitcake or Stollen. If you want to buy something to decorate the sideboard and toss away later, (as my parents did for 40 years) there are plenty available pre-packaged at the supermarket.