Mutti’s German Potato Salad
(Deutsches Kartoffel Salat)
Its almost summer and the beginning of the picnic, pool party and outdoor eating season! So why not try something new? My mother always made an authentic German Potato salad. German Potato salad does not have a mayo-creamy base like most American potato salad. People were amazed by a potato salad that didn’t have mayonnaise and my mother was asked to bring it to every picnic and summer swim party we went to. This was the reaction for over twenty years from the late 1950s through the early 80s.
It has been many years since she made it and I’m not exactly sure of each type and amount of ingredient my mother used. Hence the point of ‘Kids and a Cook’; someday you — or your children — will want to recreate a family favorite recipe. Please do it before it’s too late.
I’ve consulted with my older brother, Willi, for his memories too.
There are a few important things in authentic German potato salad — kartoffel salat. It is vinegar-based more than oil (never, ever use mayo!) I am sure my mother used regular white potatoes. They can become mealy. Buy a good red or russet potato, as they will holdup and slice better. She probably added too much salt and white sugar — maybe. She also used a bland, thin and flavorless 1950s vegetable oil that did nothing for the salad’s viscosity and taste. She didn’t have access to gourmet vinegars and used a white distilled one. She also used bacon most of the time, even though we regularly shopped at a German Butcher in Poughkeepsie and could get a key ingredient: Speck. (Yet this salad was a huge hit probably because no one knew how to improve upon it.)
Speck is essentially a German style of Prosciutto. It comes from the Tyrol region of Europe that covers southern Germany, Austria and part of the Italian Alps. A leg of pork is boned and then cured by cold smoking with a hint of spices like juniper, garlic, bay and nutmeg. After smoking, it is matured for five months.
Speck is an important and authentic ingredient. Use it instead of bacon if you can find it. Prosciutto makes a good substitute and is widely available in supermarkets. And bacon will do in a pinch.
Kartoffel Salat should be served warm. (The leftovers are great cold the next day because the flavors have had time to develop and the refrigerated coldness will not mask them.) Traditionally this is a white salad infused with clear liquids. The only color would come from the speck a sprinkling of paprika (completely optional) and chopped fresh parsley (needed) over the top.
Today we are in a position to improve upon the ingredients and methods our parents used yet keep the recipe’s essence. I decided it’s a good idea to cook the onions a little. You will want to add the vinegar dressing to the potatoes while they are still hot. The speck/bacon crumbed over top is exceptional as is the tang of the vinegar based dressing. You can experiment with various vinegars if you like. You will want something that won’t make the salad too acidic or sour.
Ingredients
- 2 –3 lbs. Potatoes, peeled. Use russet or red potatoes.
- 6 Slices Speck (prosciutto or bacon)
- 3/4 cup Chopped Onions (rough chop is fine)
- 2 tbsp Sugar
- 2 tsp. Kosher Salt
- 1/2 tsp. Celery Seed
- 1/8 tsp. Fresh Ground Black Pepper
- 1/3 Cup Cider Vinegar (White or Champagne Vinegar will work too.)
- Drizzle of Olive Oil (a mild Olive Oil works best)
- 2 Tbsp Fresh Parsley, chopped (as garnish)
- Paprika, just a sprinkling
Boil the peeled potatoes in water until done and fork tender (about 30 minutes).
While the potatoes are boiling, cook the Speck in a large sauté pan (you will need the capacity later for the potatoes. And you are adding vinegar and oil over heat, which requires care. So I don’t recommend a skillet). When crispy, transfer to a plate covered with a piece of paper towel to drain off the excess fat. If you are using American bacon you will need to drain the pan reserving about a healthy teaspoon of fat in the sauté pan. Speck or Prosciutto render much less fat than American bacon. Sauté the onions until translucent but not caramelized.
Dressing: While you are waiting for the potatoes to cook, heat your vinegar, oil and seasonings in a non-reactive saucepan. Stir to combine and keep warm.
Drain and immediately cut up the cooked potatoes into your choice of chunks, slices or coins, (cutting the potatoes thusly makes the dish a Geld Kartoffel or coin potatoes.)
Add the prepped potatoes pieces to the sauté pan with the cooked onions, and heat. There is no need the brown them — this is a white dish. Add the Vinegar dressing and stir in. When heated (about 3 –4 minutes) dump everything in a serving blow, crumble the speck on top and add parsley. Serve immediatly.
Again I’d like to thank Willi for his help bringing back memories of this salat.
